Geneva, Illinois is a super cute little burg in the far west suburbs of Chicago. In addition to all sorts of nice shopping opportunities, it also has a number of great restaurants.
Niche probably has the most buzz outside of Geneva. It's a contemporary American menu with a fantastic domestic-only wine list. Niche is the reincarnation of 302 West, which I never had the chance to try before it closed. Amazingly enough they carried this tiny boutique Napa Pinot Noir from Arger-Martucci that we tried on a trip to California a year or two ago. The menu is accessible but very interesting and extremely well executed. It is already high on our list of special occasion restaurants.
Isabella's is a Mediterranean-influenced restaurant that is a great value with an interesting menu as well. Their foie gras parfait was inventive and delicious.
Stockholm's is a brew pub with the best bar food I've ever had — but their beer is kind of not great. We usually order a Stella with their excellent burgers and papas italiano (hand cut potato chips covered in bacon, prosciutto, green onions, tomatoes and an alfredo sauce).
More suburban restaurant reviews as time permits.
Saturday, November 17, 2007
Friday, April 13, 2007
California Central Coast Wineries
Now the term "central coast" as it applies to California wines seems to be a fairly broad designation encompassing most anything south of the Bay Area all the way to Santa Barbara. Some good friends of ours, Ed and Nicole, and my godson, Christian, moved to a community just outside of San Luis Obispo. It is incredibly beautiful there and I wonder how anyone gets anything done living surrounded by such beauty and great weather. One thing they do well there is make fantastic wines.
Going wine tasting with a two-year-old is a different experience, but not altogether bad. One winery, Eagle Castle, even had a sample of their grape juice — for the budding wine enthusiasts. One thing it does limit is the amount of time you can spend visiting the vineyards and wineries.
We started by going to Claiborne & Churchill outside of San Luis Obispo. I was surprised to find out that although there were vines all around us, that they shipped the grapes in from Monterey County. That is somewhat off-putting since visiting the place where the grapes are grown and wines are made are to me part of the winery experience. However, they had some very nice whites (dry Riesling and Gerzurtaminer?) and good Pinot Noir. We bought several for our stay in California and three to bring home. They were all very nice wines, maybe in the 86-89 range. They had a $5 tasting fee, but at least it could go toward a purchase of wine if you buy. I still believe that I buy more when I don't have to pay the fee.
The next day we drove inland and north a bit to the wine country around Paso Robles. This seemed more typical of what I was used to in Napa and Chianti. More vines, more wineries, etc. We stopped first at Donati Family Winery, who also sourced their grapes from around Monterey. They had a beautiful tasting room with very nice staff but their wines were all underwhelming. I bought a Pinot Gris to offset the $5 tasting fee. I'd probably give it a 85. It had some of the tropical fruit that I normally associate with a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.
The last stop we made was to Eagle Castle Winery. Their tasting room was in a new Medieval Times-looking castle. I was a little concerned about appearances, but you can't judge a wine by its tasting room. I was immediately pleasantly surprised to find out that they didn't have a tasting fee and had a wider variety of wines to try. Everything we tasted was very good, from their Syrah Rosé, which reminded me of one we had at Arger-Martucci in Napa, to their dessert wines. I especially liked their Syrah, Cab Sauvignon, Zinfandel and Syrah-Cab blend (Royal Red). Their wines were in the 88-92 sweet spot and not too expensive. We ended up buying a half case and having it shipped home. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it finds its way to us safely.
There's a lot more to explore even in the areas we visited, but I also know that Santa Barbara has some great wineries that we will have to visit the next time we're out there.
Going wine tasting with a two-year-old is a different experience, but not altogether bad. One winery, Eagle Castle, even had a sample of their grape juice — for the budding wine enthusiasts. One thing it does limit is the amount of time you can spend visiting the vineyards and wineries.
We started by going to Claiborne & Churchill outside of San Luis Obispo. I was surprised to find out that although there were vines all around us, that they shipped the grapes in from Monterey County. That is somewhat off-putting since visiting the place where the grapes are grown and wines are made are to me part of the winery experience. However, they had some very nice whites (dry Riesling and Gerzurtaminer?) and good Pinot Noir. We bought several for our stay in California and three to bring home. They were all very nice wines, maybe in the 86-89 range. They had a $5 tasting fee, but at least it could go toward a purchase of wine if you buy. I still believe that I buy more when I don't have to pay the fee.
The next day we drove inland and north a bit to the wine country around Paso Robles. This seemed more typical of what I was used to in Napa and Chianti. More vines, more wineries, etc. We stopped first at Donati Family Winery, who also sourced their grapes from around Monterey. They had a beautiful tasting room with very nice staff but their wines were all underwhelming. I bought a Pinot Gris to offset the $5 tasting fee. I'd probably give it a 85. It had some of the tropical fruit that I normally associate with a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.
The last stop we made was to Eagle Castle Winery. Their tasting room was in a new Medieval Times-looking castle. I was a little concerned about appearances, but you can't judge a wine by its tasting room. I was immediately pleasantly surprised to find out that they didn't have a tasting fee and had a wider variety of wines to try. Everything we tasted was very good, from their Syrah Rosé, which reminded me of one we had at Arger-Martucci in Napa, to their dessert wines. I especially liked their Syrah, Cab Sauvignon, Zinfandel and Syrah-Cab blend (Royal Red). Their wines were in the 88-92 sweet spot and not too expensive. We ended up buying a half case and having it shipped home. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it finds its way to us safely.
There's a lot more to explore even in the areas we visited, but I also know that Santa Barbara has some great wineries that we will have to visit the next time we're out there.
Tuesday, February 06, 2007
Long time, no post
I know that we've been extremely tardy in our Vino & Vittles postings lately. Between home improvement projects, our day jobs and travel, it's been difficult to devote time to the blog. However, we've still be eating great food and drinking great wine, which I hope to run through in the next few weeks. I just took pictures of the past 19 bottles of wine we've drank.
In terms of cooking, I've been very focused on working on sauces. I've never felt like this was a strong suit and my improvisations never turned out very good. However, with a little reading up and studying some techniques, I feel like my sauces are getting markedly better.
The other latest food obsessions have been experimenting with different vegetables and fruits. By and large we've had good success with this (celery root, parsnips, rutabega) but a few notable misses (quince and Palestine limes). The quince we tried raw and was hard without much flavor. The Palestine limes (which are yellow) had an off-lime/orange flavor and a weird sweetness without much balancing acidity. I wasted some of my Cacacha trying to make a Palestine lime caipirinha. Bummer. The root vegetable purées have been nice though. I love the celery root best (cooked in stock with a lesser amount of potato), but the parsnips and rutabega were also a welcome change from the everyday mashed potatoes. The parsnips were particularly interesting finished with a little nutmeg and truffle oil.
Speaking of truffle oil, I made a mushroom risotto using mushrooms from Trader Joe's (oyster, crimini, shitake) and finishing with a healthy pour of truffle oil. Basically, you saute onion until translucent, add a little garlic, the chopped mushrooms thyme and sage and saute until softened. Add the risotto (I did two cups) and stir until it becomes chalky. Add white wine (about a cup), stir until absorbed. Keep stirring and add chicken stock a little at a time until it is al dente (about five cups). I finish with about a cup of grated parm and a little half and half in the pot, and the truffle oil at the plating.
Finally, although I am a huge proponent for eschewing short cuts for natural ingredients and freshness whenever possible, I am addicted to Paul Prudhomme's Magic Seasonings. I use their seasoned salt on so many different things from hamburgers to frittatas. My favorite though is the Pork and Veal Magic, which I use as a rub and then in the pan sauce I make (whether it be a pear sauce, cream sauce, sherry sauce or even a marsala sauce I made.
More to come.
In terms of cooking, I've been very focused on working on sauces. I've never felt like this was a strong suit and my improvisations never turned out very good. However, with a little reading up and studying some techniques, I feel like my sauces are getting markedly better.
The other latest food obsessions have been experimenting with different vegetables and fruits. By and large we've had good success with this (celery root, parsnips, rutabega) but a few notable misses (quince and Palestine limes). The quince we tried raw and was hard without much flavor. The Palestine limes (which are yellow) had an off-lime/orange flavor and a weird sweetness without much balancing acidity. I wasted some of my Cacacha trying to make a Palestine lime caipirinha. Bummer. The root vegetable purées have been nice though. I love the celery root best (cooked in stock with a lesser amount of potato), but the parsnips and rutabega were also a welcome change from the everyday mashed potatoes. The parsnips were particularly interesting finished with a little nutmeg and truffle oil.
Speaking of truffle oil, I made a mushroom risotto using mushrooms from Trader Joe's (oyster, crimini, shitake) and finishing with a healthy pour of truffle oil. Basically, you saute onion until translucent, add a little garlic, the chopped mushrooms thyme and sage and saute until softened. Add the risotto (I did two cups) and stir until it becomes chalky. Add white wine (about a cup), stir until absorbed. Keep stirring and add chicken stock a little at a time until it is al dente (about five cups). I finish with about a cup of grated parm and a little half and half in the pot, and the truffle oil at the plating.
Finally, although I am a huge proponent for eschewing short cuts for natural ingredients and freshness whenever possible, I am addicted to Paul Prudhomme's Magic Seasonings. I use their seasoned salt on so many different things from hamburgers to frittatas. My favorite though is the Pork and Veal Magic, which I use as a rub and then in the pan sauce I make (whether it be a pear sauce, cream sauce, sherry sauce or even a marsala sauce I made.
More to come.
Wednesday, December 20, 2006
Quartino, utterly disappointing
Sometimes your reputation, even a positive one, can be your worst enemy. Natalie had raved about the atmosphere, prices and food and drink at Quartino, a neighbor and counterpart to Osteria via Stato. Following a similar "small plates" design and wines sold by the quarter (quartino), half and full liter, Quartino matches Osteria via Stato's prices and exceeds their ambiance. Where Stato had blaring techno music paired with faux rustic decor, Quartino had the simple but elegant atmosphere nailed down to their charming retro bathrooms.
However, this is where the praise ends and I haven't made it to the most important element — the food. We ordered a mezzo of Ruffino Orvieto Classico, which was fine. There were other options that looked interesting, but at double to price, we stuck with a solid, if predictable, stand-by. We ordered the bigoli with a "venetian duck ragú" and a quatro formaggio pizza. The bigoli, similar to pici in many ways, was a nice pasta, but the sauce was a real disappointment. In my opinion, they made a mother red sauce and threw in some duck at the end. The duck was not falling apart and the sauce didn't have that braised in flavor. This is a pretty shoddy way to make a sauce and by no means lives up to their "authentic" cred. Even worse was the pizza. The crust was thin but still doughy, nothing like real Italian pizzas. It had none of the nice charring on the bottom and was just blah. To top it off, they added the same bland, overly acidic red sauce to the quatro formaggi. I've had quite a few four cheese pizzas in my time and they never had a red sauce, maybe some garlic infused olive oil, but the cheese is supposed to be the star. Here, you could hardly distinguish between the cheeses. All in all, this was a spot-on interpretation of an "authentic" Chuck-E-Cheese pizza — definitely not what I expected.
Quartino could be great. Natalie has seen them be great. I hope they get there. But I won't be back and I suggest you don't go either if you're looking for anything more than a glass of wine.
However, this is where the praise ends and I haven't made it to the most important element — the food. We ordered a mezzo of Ruffino Orvieto Classico, which was fine. There were other options that looked interesting, but at double to price, we stuck with a solid, if predictable, stand-by. We ordered the bigoli with a "venetian duck ragú" and a quatro formaggio pizza. The bigoli, similar to pici in many ways, was a nice pasta, but the sauce was a real disappointment. In my opinion, they made a mother red sauce and threw in some duck at the end. The duck was not falling apart and the sauce didn't have that braised in flavor. This is a pretty shoddy way to make a sauce and by no means lives up to their "authentic" cred. Even worse was the pizza. The crust was thin but still doughy, nothing like real Italian pizzas. It had none of the nice charring on the bottom and was just blah. To top it off, they added the same bland, overly acidic red sauce to the quatro formaggi. I've had quite a few four cheese pizzas in my time and they never had a red sauce, maybe some garlic infused olive oil, but the cheese is supposed to be the star. Here, you could hardly distinguish between the cheeses. All in all, this was a spot-on interpretation of an "authentic" Chuck-E-Cheese pizza — definitely not what I expected.
Quartino could be great. Natalie has seen them be great. I hope they get there. But I won't be back and I suggest you don't go either if you're looking for anything more than a glass of wine.
Wednesday, November 29, 2006
Sweets and Savories, Redux
Nearly a year after our first visit to Sweets and Savories, on Fullerton near Ashland in Chicago, we returned with out-of-town guests. Monday nights are definitely the night to go — they have a seven-course no menu meal for $50 with free BYOB, which can save you a bundle and let you bring a special bottle or two from home to enjoy.
There had been some disparaging comments on Metromix about the restaurant either about the quality of the food or the service. I have to think that those people either are too uptight, i.e. food like this should be served by stuffy individuals, or are not adventurous eaters, i.e. what's risotto?. We had the same server as our previous visit and he is quirky and funny, but not intrusive. Very knowledgeable about the food and proud to work there. I'd rather have someone like that to interact with than someone completely detached who doesn't care about the food or the person being served.
That said, the food was outstanding. We started with a dish of mussles in tomato fumé with sausage (possible andouille). We all were scraping the plate to get every last bit cleaned. This was a nice starter and we opened with a 2005 Kim Crawford Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, which was a very good Sauvignon Blanc — tropical fruit, pears, even a little apricot on the nose and continued through the finish.
The second course was very good and visually interesting. It was a seared scallop on celery root purée with chevril on top with a streak of bright yellow-orange mango coulis. The celery root was perfectly salty and the scallop had a great texture and flavor that came through clean.
The third course was probably everyone's favorite and one that I will mimic at home. It was a striped sea bass on top of saffrom-goat cheese grits with a salad of lamb's lettuce on top — very interesting, but simple too. Really perfect.
Then we had a duck leg confit on blueberry risotto finished with truffle oil. This was very good. The last time we were there they had blueberry risotto that I criticized because there were seeds in the risotto that took away from the texture enjoyment — this time that had been remedied and was perfect.
Moving toward the home stretch, the next course was a baby arugula salad with a lemon/truffle oil vinegarette with grana padano on top. Very nice transition to the sweets portion of the meal.
Next was an apricot-chardonnay sorbet. Nice palate cleanser. Good consistency.
Finally, the finish was the big dessert bang —a warm chocolate budino with chocolate ganache, chocolate sorbet and Scharfen-Berger bigs. A beautiful plate and very good finish.
For the wine, after the Kim Crawford with the sea food dishes, we had a Praxis Pinot Noir that we purchased at the Oakville Grocery in Napa based on a recommendation. It was very good — nice dark cherry notes and a smooth finish. Then we had a bottle of Amphora Dry Creek Syrah, brought by our dinner guests, that was also very good — jammy, but not over-the-top. Finally, we ended with a Quady Elysium dessert wine made from black muscat. This had an almost bubble gum flavor that is a wonderful, lively finish to any meal.
All-in-all, an incredible deal at $50 and a meal that is not soon forgotten.
There had been some disparaging comments on Metromix about the restaurant either about the quality of the food or the service. I have to think that those people either are too uptight, i.e. food like this should be served by stuffy individuals, or are not adventurous eaters, i.e. what's risotto?. We had the same server as our previous visit and he is quirky and funny, but not intrusive. Very knowledgeable about the food and proud to work there. I'd rather have someone like that to interact with than someone completely detached who doesn't care about the food or the person being served.
That said, the food was outstanding. We started with a dish of mussles in tomato fumé with sausage (possible andouille). We all were scraping the plate to get every last bit cleaned. This was a nice starter and we opened with a 2005 Kim Crawford Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, which was a very good Sauvignon Blanc — tropical fruit, pears, even a little apricot on the nose and continued through the finish.
The second course was very good and visually interesting. It was a seared scallop on celery root purée with chevril on top with a streak of bright yellow-orange mango coulis. The celery root was perfectly salty and the scallop had a great texture and flavor that came through clean.
The third course was probably everyone's favorite and one that I will mimic at home. It was a striped sea bass on top of saffrom-goat cheese grits with a salad of lamb's lettuce on top — very interesting, but simple too. Really perfect.
Then we had a duck leg confit on blueberry risotto finished with truffle oil. This was very good. The last time we were there they had blueberry risotto that I criticized because there were seeds in the risotto that took away from the texture enjoyment — this time that had been remedied and was perfect.
Moving toward the home stretch, the next course was a baby arugula salad with a lemon/truffle oil vinegarette with grana padano on top. Very nice transition to the sweets portion of the meal.
Next was an apricot-chardonnay sorbet. Nice palate cleanser. Good consistency.
Finally, the finish was the big dessert bang —a warm chocolate budino with chocolate ganache, chocolate sorbet and Scharfen-Berger bigs. A beautiful plate and very good finish.
For the wine, after the Kim Crawford with the sea food dishes, we had a Praxis Pinot Noir that we purchased at the Oakville Grocery in Napa based on a recommendation. It was very good — nice dark cherry notes and a smooth finish. Then we had a bottle of Amphora Dry Creek Syrah, brought by our dinner guests, that was also very good — jammy, but not over-the-top. Finally, we ended with a Quady Elysium dessert wine made from black muscat. This had an almost bubble gum flavor that is a wonderful, lively finish to any meal.
All-in-all, an incredible deal at $50 and a meal that is not soon forgotten.
Monday, November 27, 2006
Thanksgiving traditions & experiments, Part I
Being a traditionalist who likes to try new recipes and culinary ideas can sometimes be at odds with the holiday feast. This year we had a two part gorge-fest with a pre-Thanksgiving gathering in Minnesota and a more low-key dinner at home on the actual day.
For the pre-fest, we brought a few side dishes that are old favorites for me and one truffled up version of an old stand-by.
There's nothing easier than cream cheese-stuffed celery and it is always one of the things that gets nibbled on early and often. Combine one package of cream cheese, one grated small onion, a few handfuls of chopped pecans, and salt and white pepper to taste. You can add a little cream or milk to soften, but it should not be runny. Smear on deveined celery stalks about four inches long and finish liberally with paprika.
Another favorite for me, not necessarily gourmet but still damn good, is Waldorf Crown Salad. Congealed salads are not necessarily in vogue, but the sweet coldness mixes well with the warm, savory aspects of the meal. Make two six oz. boxes of cherry or strawberry Jell-o according to directions. After about an hour chilling, add one large diced apple; four sliced, deveined celery stalks (no leaves), and a handfull of chopped pecans to the Jell-o and scrape into a crown mold. Serve with "dressing" of one cup sour cream, a half cup of miracle whip and a cup and a half of mini marshmallows.
Finally, I did slow-cooked southern-style green beans but with a Italian/gourmet twist. Sautee onions until soft, add 1/4 lb. of pancetta (or bacon or ham), add green beans and cover with water, simmer for two to three hours. I finished with two tablespoons on truffle butter which really added a nice fragrant kick.
Other dishes included an organic, free range turkey from Thief River Falls, MN; oyster and non-oyster stuffing and dressing; giblet gravy; mashed potatoes; sweet potato casserole; hot rolls; and pumpkin pie.
We had so many great wines including a Le Mistral from Joseph Phelps. The Mistral surprised us when we tasted it on our trip to Napa last January. It was very complex and drinkable right out of the bottle. I highly recommend it. The dark fruit was present on the nose and carried through the finish, which lingered nicely without being overly cloying or too acidic. Natalie's sister's in-laws used to own a wine shop and have great taste in wines (and great palettes). They brought a number of very nice wines to share, none of which I had the foresight to note their names.
More to come on the "real" Thanksgiving.
For the pre-fest, we brought a few side dishes that are old favorites for me and one truffled up version of an old stand-by.
There's nothing easier than cream cheese-stuffed celery and it is always one of the things that gets nibbled on early and often. Combine one package of cream cheese, one grated small onion, a few handfuls of chopped pecans, and salt and white pepper to taste. You can add a little cream or milk to soften, but it should not be runny. Smear on deveined celery stalks about four inches long and finish liberally with paprika.
Another favorite for me, not necessarily gourmet but still damn good, is Waldorf Crown Salad. Congealed salads are not necessarily in vogue, but the sweet coldness mixes well with the warm, savory aspects of the meal. Make two six oz. boxes of cherry or strawberry Jell-o according to directions. After about an hour chilling, add one large diced apple; four sliced, deveined celery stalks (no leaves), and a handfull of chopped pecans to the Jell-o and scrape into a crown mold. Serve with "dressing" of one cup sour cream, a half cup of miracle whip and a cup and a half of mini marshmallows.
Finally, I did slow-cooked southern-style green beans but with a Italian/gourmet twist. Sautee onions until soft, add 1/4 lb. of pancetta (or bacon or ham), add green beans and cover with water, simmer for two to three hours. I finished with two tablespoons on truffle butter which really added a nice fragrant kick.
Other dishes included an organic, free range turkey from Thief River Falls, MN; oyster and non-oyster stuffing and dressing; giblet gravy; mashed potatoes; sweet potato casserole; hot rolls; and pumpkin pie.
We had so many great wines including a Le Mistral from Joseph Phelps. The Mistral surprised us when we tasted it on our trip to Napa last January. It was very complex and drinkable right out of the bottle. I highly recommend it. The dark fruit was present on the nose and carried through the finish, which lingered nicely without being overly cloying or too acidic. Natalie's sister's in-laws used to own a wine shop and have great taste in wines (and great palettes). They brought a number of very nice wines to share, none of which I had the foresight to note their names.
More to come on the "real" Thanksgiving.
Tuesday, November 14, 2006
Quick, easy and good
First off, thank you to my mom for the shout out on her blog, Alabama Kitchen Sink (alabamakitchensink.blogspot.com), which seems to be gaining a lot of regular readers. She has influenced my cooking more than anyone else (although my grandmother Mattie comes in a close second).
Striving for good, home-cooked meals is an ongoing challenge. We turned to the time-tested crock pot last night to help us make an easy, time-saving dinner. I don't have any research to back this up, but I have a hunch that people in my age group and younger (late twenties, early thirties) don't cook with the crock pot. That's a shame because time is something no one has and time is the one thing, in my opinion, that can make the biggest difference in a good to great meal (see my ragu bolognese).
That said, I found a really nice pork roast on sale at our local Italian grocery Prisco's and Natalie seasoned it with Magic Seasonings in the morning, added a can of diced tomatoes and nearly a full bottle of store bought barbeque sauce (in this case Famous Dave's sweet sauce). Leaving it on low for the day resulted in falling apart pork barbeque that was better than all but the best purveyors of true barbeque.
We paired it with the rest of the greens (turnip, collard and mustard) prepared in the same manner as my previous post and homemade sweet potato chips. Using our deep fryer, which I know not everyone has, and our mandoline (one of Natalie's favorite kitchen tools I think), the chips were quick, different and went perfectly with the meal. I just deep fried them, let them rest on a plate covered in paper towels to drain and seasoned with a pinch of kosher salt. I was going for a sweet potato version of the saratoga chips that are popular in Cincinnati barbeque restaurants like Montgomery Inn, which has the best sauce I've ever had.
Striving for good, home-cooked meals is an ongoing challenge. We turned to the time-tested crock pot last night to help us make an easy, time-saving dinner. I don't have any research to back this up, but I have a hunch that people in my age group and younger (late twenties, early thirties) don't cook with the crock pot. That's a shame because time is something no one has and time is the one thing, in my opinion, that can make the biggest difference in a good to great meal (see my ragu bolognese).
That said, I found a really nice pork roast on sale at our local Italian grocery Prisco's and Natalie seasoned it with Magic Seasonings in the morning, added a can of diced tomatoes and nearly a full bottle of store bought barbeque sauce (in this case Famous Dave's sweet sauce). Leaving it on low for the day resulted in falling apart pork barbeque that was better than all but the best purveyors of true barbeque.
We paired it with the rest of the greens (turnip, collard and mustard) prepared in the same manner as my previous post and homemade sweet potato chips. Using our deep fryer, which I know not everyone has, and our mandoline (one of Natalie's favorite kitchen tools I think), the chips were quick, different and went perfectly with the meal. I just deep fried them, let them rest on a plate covered in paper towels to drain and seasoned with a pinch of kosher salt. I was going for a sweet potato version of the saratoga chips that are popular in Cincinnati barbeque restaurants like Montgomery Inn, which has the best sauce I've ever had.
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